11卷3期
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2000 / 9
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pp. 1 - 48
從消費的空間到空間的消費──明清城市中的酒樓與茶館
From Consumer Space to the Consumption of Space: Drinking Parlors and Tea Houses in Ming and Qing Cities
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作者
王鴻泰 Hung-tai Wang *
(暨南國際大學歷史學系副教授 Department of History, National Chi Nan University)
王鴻泰 Hung-tai Wang *
暨南國際大學歷史學系副教授 Department of History, National Chi Nan University
中文摘要

人員與物質的不斷流動開啟了城市生活與文化的發展,而茶館、酒樓可說是直接因應於城市的流動而興起的社會活動空間,它相隨於城市的人口流動狀況而發展出不同的形態,所以它本身的形態發展就是一種城市社會文化的表現。本文即以此為重點,探討這類活動空間如何因應於城市生活的發展而改變其形態。在實際討論上,首先對這種消費空間作類型上的區分,再以演化的觀點序列這些空間的發展意義,由此思考這種「公眾生活領域」如何在城市中與一般民眾的生活發生關聯。且進而思考這種消費性的活動空間在整體城市生活中到底扮演何種角色,發揮什麼樣的社會功能。 城市中茶館與酒樓的發展,可說是個人活動領域的拓展與社會生活空間的創造過程,也可視為「公眾生活」領域發展程度的指標。這種消費性場所的基本性質是作為「日常生活」的補充,但隨著城市商業的發達,而越來越往「休閒娛樂」的方面強調,遂成為城市中重要的娛樂社交場所。若將提供日常飲食的「酒店」、強調聲色之娛的「酒樓」、以及平價化的茶館當作一個發展歷程來看,從酒店到酒樓顯示其往高消費方向發展的一面,這個面向意味著這種飲食空間由「日常性」飲食往「非日常性」的娛樂休閒方向發展的傾向;而從「酒樓」到「茶館」,則顯示其休閒性的趨於日常化、普及化。就整體社會生活的發展而言,從酒飯店到酒樓再到茶館的發展過程,可說是一個「非日常性」生活範疇在城市中逐漸確立的過程,而酒樓與茶館之類空間消費的日漸頻繁,也可說是城市中公共空間日漸擴張的過程。城市中這些多面向的消費性休閒空間的發展,顯示其公眾生活領域的發展過程,這些場所數量的多寡或規模的大小和城市中公眾生活的發達程度成正比,明清間商業性城市中的酒店、茶館在數量上與內在活動的發達,正反映出其整體公眾生活領域的擴張,及公眾生活的繁盛。

英文摘要

The steady flow of people and goods spurs the development of city life and culture, and drinking parlors and teahouses can be described as spaces of social activity that have arisen in response to changes in the city, developing into different forms according to the changes of the city's populations. Therefore, the transformation of drinking parlors and teahouses itself is an expression of city culture. This essay is intended to explore how places of this kind change in response to changes of city life. First of all, I will sort these places of consumption into different types; then explain the significance of their development from the perspective of their evolution; and thus consider how these realms of public life relate to the life of common people in the city. Furthermore, I will look at the role these places of consumption play in the whole of city life, and what social function they fulfill. 

The development of drinking parlors and teahouses in the city can be described as an expansion of individual activity and a development of spaces of social activity, and also as a marker for the development of therealm of public life. While the basic nature of these venues of consumption is to supplement "daily life", as the city develops commercially, the element of "relaxation and recreation" is more emphasized, and hence they become important places for social entertainment in the city. We can look at the "tavern" (jiudian), which provides daily food and drink, the "drinking parlor" (jiulou), which offers the pleasure of singing girls, and the "teahouse", a cheaper place, as a developmental process. The transition of tavern to drinking parlor shows a move towards extravagant expenditure, suggesting a development from an every-day space where food and drink are consumed to a more exceptional space for relaxing entertainment. The transition of drinking parlor to teahouse then shows the popularization of this form of relaxation. In terms of the overall development of social life, the transition from tavern to parlor to teahouse can be described as the gradual establishment of an "uncommon" area of life, and the continuing increase of consumption in places like the parlors and teahouses can be described as a continuing expansion of public space in the city. The rise in the city of such multi-faceted spaces of consumption and relaxation reflects the development of public living space, the quantity and scale of these venues acting as measure of the level of public life in the city. The quantity and scope of activity in drinking parlors and teahouses of Ming-Qing commercial cities reflects the overall expanse and splendor of the realm of public life.

中文關鍵字

酒食攤; 酒飯店; 酒樓; 茶館; 日常性; 非日常性; 消費空間

英文關鍵字

drinking parlor; teahouse; consumer space; the consumption of space