本文探討臺灣鹿茸之生產如何改變其消費屬性與消費方式。荷蘭時期大量獵鹿，鹿的消費不在食補，而以外銷鹿皮至日本為主。清代漢人移墾改變臺灣鹿隻貿易，鹿脯、鹿茸與鹿鞭銷往中國，此與傳統中國醫藥視「鹿」為補陽聖品之觀念有關，尤以鹿茸為最。清末以降，綠島與小琉球已有「梅花鹿」養殖且與中國進行貿易。不論清領或日治時期，鹿茸仍屬奢侈性消費品。戰後臺灣鹿茸需求依舊存在，鹿茸商品主要由養鹿業者、公賣局與中藥房供售。戰後養鹿技術漸趨成熟，經營方式趨向專業化，「水鹿」逐漸取代梅花鹿成為主流。養鹿業者以新鮮鹿茸製成「生茸酒」，量少質佳，價格昂貴，多採「自產自銷」方式。另一方面，代表國家力量的公賣局以「量產」策略取勝，進口廉價鹿茸製成「參茸酒」，逐漸改變日治以降鹿茸價昂的消費型態。同時，鹿茸炮製方式的改變也影響性別消費，鹿茸商品從戰後初期的男女老少皆宜(鹿茸丸)，轉變為以男性為主要訴求對象(鹿茸酒)，且因價格降低而成為大眾化消費商品。

This paper examines how velvet-antler production changed economic and consumption patterns in Taiwan. During the Dutch period, people in Taiwan extensively hunted deer to export the skins to Japan. In the Qing period, Chinese immigrants to Taiwan changed the island’s approach to the deer trade. Islanders now shipped dried deer meat, velvet-antler, and deer penis to China, in line with the centuries-old Chinese concept that certain deer products were aphrodisiacs. In the late Qing period, both Green Island and Xiao Liuqiu Island domesticated Formosan Sika Deer and exported deer products to China. Regardless of whether Taiwan fell under Qing rule or Japanese rule, velvet-antler remained a form of conspicuous luxury consumption in Taiwan itself. The demand for velvet-antler continued in postwar Taiwan, where the main suppliers of velvet-antler products were deer farmers, the Taiwan Tobacco and Wine Monopoly Bureau, and Chinese herbal medicine pharmacies. In terms of production, deer farmers crafted velvet-antler liquor in small, pricey, high-quality batches. By contrast, the Taiwan Tobacco and Wine Monopoly Bureau adopted the strategy of mass production: by importing cheap velvet-antlers from foreign countries, the Bureau produced “ginseng and velvet-antler liquor.” The rare and expensive velvet-antler liquor of Taiwan’s Japanese colonial period ceded place to postwar Taiwan’s mass consumption. Moreover, velvet-antler production changed its form of delivery, which influenced gender differences in consumption.

鹿茸；中藥；補品；水鹿；養鹿業

velvet-antler; Chinese medicine; tonic; Formosan Sambar deer; deer industry