62卷4期
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2011 / 12
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pp. 55 - 104
日治時期顏、施兩家服飾特徵及其意涵:以施素筠的生命史為例
The Study of the Apparel Phenomenon and Implications of tTwo Big Families, the Yan and the Shi, During Japanese Colonial Period. -Taking Shi Suyun’s Life History as an Example
作者
葉立誠 *
(實踐大學服裝設計學系助理教授兼出版組主任)
葉立誠 *
實踐大學服裝設計學系助理教授兼出版組主任
中文摘要
本次研究主要是以施素筠老師作為核心,並就其個人所衍生出來的 鹿港施家(本家)以及基隆顏家(夫家),就該兩大家族成員在服飾穿 著的現象與意涵進行探討。本研究是以口述歷史的方法與精神,執行施 老師生命史的研究,口述專訪是起自1999年2月,至2002年2月為止,共 進行有74次之多。經由深度訪談的過程,除了獲得可貴的口述資料外, 在訪談過程中,更取得由施老師所提供珍藏的家族照片,這些珍貴的第 一手資料,在施老師的協助下,由研究者以多重交叉比對方式,精準確 認出時間、背景、人物等相關資訊。 本次研究是依據研究動機、研究目的所進行的質性研究,其具體 成果有三:一、本次研究嘗試以施素筠個人生命史的口述歷史,來進行 有關臺灣服裝歷史與文化的研究,確實為此領域開拓出新的研究方向。 二、本研究藉由施素筠親身經驗的口述,並搭配大量傳世照片的解說, 再加上研究者的考證,確實有效呈現顏、施兩大家族成員,在日治時期 服飾穿著上的真實樣貌,並且更進一步探究出穿著現象背後的意涵之所 在。三、本研究嘗試以施素筠個人生命史為核心,以施素筠為例,深入 瞭解施素筠個人,在一般穿著與學生制服兩類的穿著現象、態度、價值 與看法,此確實能為臺灣服裝的深化研究建立新思維。
英文摘要
The study of the apparel phenomenon and implication of two big families - the Shi family from Lugang (Ms. Shi’s side of family) and the Yen family from Keelung (Ms. Shi’s husband’s side of family) is derived from the core study of Ms. Shi Suyun. The study of Ms. Shi’s life history applied the method and the spirit of oral history. There were more than 74 interviews started from February 1999 to February 2002. Through in-depth interviews, we not only collected valuable information, we also obtained precious family photos provided by Ms. Shi. With the first-hand information and the help of Ms. Shi, the researchers were able to use multiple cross-matching methods to precisely verify the time, background, characters and other related information. The study is a qualitative research based on motive and purpose. There are three concrete results from this study. First, the researchers attempted a study of Taiwan’s fashion history and culture through an oral history of Ms. Shi’s personal life. It developed a new research direction for this kind of study. Second, through Ms. Shi’s narration of her personal experience together with her many pictures and in addition to the researchers’ verification, it presented a lively picture of two families, the Yan and the Shi, wearing costumes during the Japanese colonial period of Taiwan. Furthermore, it explored the meaning behind the apparel phenomenon. Third, the researchers attempted to use Ms. Shi’s personal life history as the core study and by way of taking her as an example to understand more about her personal views of the apparel phenomenon, attitudes and values on general apparel and students’ uniforms, it was substantial in setting up a new thinking for a deepened study of Taiwan's fashion.
中文關鍵字
日治時期;基隆顏家;鹿港施家;生命史研究;口述歷史;臺 灣服飾
英文關鍵字
Japanese Colonial Period;The Yan Family from Keelung;The Shi Family from Lugang;Life History Research;Oral History, Taiwanese Costume