73卷3期
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2022 / 9
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pp. 173 - 206
日治時期臺南州地方特產的創生及其歷史意義:以新港飴為例
The conception of local specialties of Tainan Prefecture under Japanese rule and their historical significance: A case study of the Xingang Candy
作者
陳靜寬 *
(國立臺灣歷史博物館副研究員兼研究組組長)
陳靜寬 *
國立臺灣歷史博物館副研究員兼研究組組長
中文摘要
日治時期觀光事業興起,臺灣總督府鐵道部出版《臺灣鐵道旅行案內》 作為觀光客旅行使用,為了迎合觀光客需求,將全臺各站景點、名勝與物產 等臚列其上。從各年份的《臺灣鐵道旅行案內》中特產品分析,了解臺灣各 地特產的變化,日治之後臺灣糕餅甜食因日本人引進和菓子製法,物美價廉 的甜食成為觀光旅客做為致贈的禮品。 本文以日治時期臺南州知名甜點「新港飴」為案例,以傳統糕餅甜點成 為伴手禮進行歷史背景的分析,糕餅甜食在清代臺灣時期多為宗教信俗、年 節慶典的祭祀品,也是常民日常的零食、點心,偶爾做為致贈親友的伴手 禮。日治時期之後因觀光事業興起,觀光旅遊活動普及化,地方特產的需求 增加,容易攜帶、物美價廉的糕餅甜食受到觀光客的青睞,逐漸成為首選的 伴手禮。新港飴原為鄉土零食糖食「老鼠糖」,卻因處於宗教活動慶典「媽 祖」出巡區域內,由於觀光客的購買、製造者參賽得獎等,轉身成為代表地 方特產的伴手禮。 原為地方的零食點心透過官方與私人團體觀光旅遊手冊與刊物出版品、 舉辦展覽會、品評會等方式而聲名大噪,許多店家競相學習、仿製,推出更 多不同名稱的飴糖,本文釐清在地的糕點成為地方名產的歷史演變過程, 討論其成為名產的推手,藉此探究傳統糕點的歷史意義與地方特產創生的歷 程。
英文摘要
Taiwan’s tourism industry grew rapidly under the period of Japanese rule, and the Guidebooks of Taiwan Railway Tour was compiled by the Railway Department of the Office of the GovernorGeneral of Taiwan in service of the needs of railway travelers. This series catalog a comprehensive list of sights, notable destinations, and local specialties located near each railway station. Analyzing the changing product mix in each edition of the Guidebooks of Taiwan Railway Tour, innovation in traditional Taiwanese sweets and pastry with the introduction of Japanese confectionery production techniques created a market in high quality and affordable gifts for tourists. This article is a case study of Xingang Candy of Tainan Prefecture during the period of Japanese rule, analyzing it through the historical context of traditional confectionery and pastry gifts of omiyage, a Japanese concept of local specialties (usually food items) brought back as gifts out of respect for friends and families. During the Qing dynasty in Taiwan, confectionery and pastry items were part of religious traditions and offerings as well as being snacks and nibbles formass consumption, gifted to friends and families only occasionally. After Japanese rule, with the rise of sightseeing and tourism, a greater demand developed for local specialty food items. The handy-sized, high-quality and affordably-priced sweets and pastries found favor among travelers, gradually becoming the omiyage of choice. Xingang Candy(Shinkoame) had existed as a traditional snack called “mouse candy”, which was picked up by tourists on the trail of religious festivals of the touring “Beigang Matsu”, subsequently earning its distinction at confectioner competitions, marking its transformation into a local specialty omiyage. What was originally a local snack, through the interventions of government and private sector tour group publications, guidebooks, exhibitions, and competitions was suddenly in vogue, studied by competitors and imitated, creating a following of similar products with different names. This article sheds light on the circumstances of the historic transformation of a local confectionery into a local specialty, examining the forces precipitating its change, and through it understand the historical significance and the making of a local specialty.
中文關鍵字
新港飴;和菓子;特產;伴手禮;名產;土產
英文關鍵字
Xingang Candy;Wagashi;Local Specialty;Omiyage;Signature Product;Regional Food